Saturday, May 20, 2017

PA trout survey -- Success on Spruce Creek & the Little J

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There ... I've hooked you
Henry and Liz' Christmas present was a PA fishing license and as we enjoyed the holiday we surveyed a directory of Keystone State trout streams.   Just as Gunpowder Falls works well as a midpoint destination, we started looking for PA streams where we could meet for an adventure.  We decided on Clear Shade Creek (CSC) in Somerset County high on the Allegheny Plateau.  The plateau is the highest in PA and serves as a watershed divider.   Waters flowing to the West find their way to the Gulf of Mexico by way of the Mississippi and waters flowing from its Eastern slope end in the Atlantic via the Susquehanna.


The plan was to meet Thursday morning and fish Friday and Saturday, but as the week dawned and the forecast solidified we knew that rain would be part of the equation. Driving north on Thursday I raced the rain to Bedford, PA where we met for coffee. From there we convoyed to a well reviewed access for CSC and remarked that it wasn't nearly as remote as we had been led us to believe. We geared up in a grey rain and a local pulled-in, all truck and camo, after discussion we decided that we'd fish up from the river access and he'd fish down.    He was pleasant, had been fishing CSC for 30 years, but I should have been worried when I saw his spinning rod and 3" silver flukes.



Geared up with light rods we (unnecessarily) biked down to get a look at CSC.   I'm used to high gradient, boulder strewn mountain streams so the silty-sandy-muddy valley collector I found was new to me, picturesque (I guess) but didn't excite me.  As I lowered myself from the grassy bank I got slurped to mid calf in the mud and released a cloud of silt. 👎   We a gave CSC 3-hrs, stalking from the banks and trying to find some indication of trout in this 'wild-section'....but like Yukon Cornelius looking for gold.. nothing.   Cold, wet and anxious to find troutier water we carried our bikes up 26 steeply carved  steps and found the spinning guy unpacking after having caught 6-7 trout!  Damn. Armed with intel and not wanting to be skunked we left the bikes and hiked back to  the section spin-guy had harvested.  A mature beaver dam had blocked the upstream migration of any stocked trout and this fella had been just dipping his weighted fluke into holding structure to pull out trout. Henry got one nice strike on a dual dropper rig but as this wasn't our bag we headed out determined to try another access point.

Beaver Dams in different degrees of construction marked much of CSC
We slid around rutted roads to the well-marked Crumb Rd. access and decided to bike 2-miles down to the special regs fly fishing only section.  After a slog of a ride (jeep trail/ bog) we reached the reservoir marking the start of the special regs section and found CSC very hard to fish; silty, darkly tannin stained, deep and not inviting.  After losing several indicator, dual-dropper set-ups to roll cast errors (trees) my fun meter was pegged and we decided to regroup and find a better place to fish Friday.

Lower CSC fly fishing only section
Studying streams to the East while sipping beer and enjoying choriqueso at a local Mexican restaurant in Johnston PA, we deiced to hit Spruce Creek and the Little Juanita near their confluence in the tiny Hamlet of Spruce Creek, PA. Spruce Creek is fished by Presidents and famed in angling circles for its brown trout fishery all but the bottom half mile is privately owned and access is managed through guides and clubs.   Not knowing what we'd find we set out for the Penn State Section and hoped for the best.   It was grey and drizzly again but the heavy rain had stayed to the South and we after gearing up in the well marked access point .6 miles upstream from the 'town' we found ourselves alone on a beautiful mid-sized trout stream.  30 feet wide in most places with a rocky bottom and over hanging (you guessed it) spruces this water was far more to my liking. It wasn't long till fingerling and small brown trout brought smiles to our faces as we leap-frogged-fished and nymphed under the creeks' dripping spruce boughs.


Henry smiles on Spruce Creek

classic brown on a classic stream

Hen isn't playing to the camera -- he loves fishing


laying out some line on Spruce Creek

Naturally reproducing browns 



A Far and Fine Brown for me



At around 1130 a sulphur fly hatch began, we knew we could continue to catch these browns, but wanted to grab lunch and advice and hit the Little Juanita as the hatch matured.  Instead of visiting well known Spruce Creek Outfitters we found a great bakery next to PerformanceFlies, its owner Kevin and his sidekick Irish Setter 'Caddis'. Kevin's fly shop is welcoming and well stocked his manner betraying his love for all things fly fishing.   We bought some lovely parachute sulphurs (support your local fly shop) and gratefully took his detailed advice on where greet the hatch, the rising browns and pretty much which rock to stand on.....he was spot on.  The Little J is, well ...little compared to the Juanita, but still pretty big water so I borrowed Hen's 5wt Helios and he geared up with a New Zealand special, a 9' glass 6wt from Epic Rod Company, its richly translucent blank beautiful and it's moderate-buttery action a joy to cast. 

Fish-on For Hen, this B&W allows you to see the hatch dotting the Little Juanita

Timing COULD NOT HAVE BEEN BETTER as the sulphurs began dotting the river around us.  Sparrows swooped and nipped the hatch from above and then they came from below.   Minutes ago the water was unrippled, now browns were rising all around us slurping the meaty flies from the surface. 
A sulphur scooped up 
The cold Little J pressed in our our legs and tested our mettle, but the frenzy of trout kept us locked on station.  After we found a cast and drift to mimic the natural drift of the sulphurs we began picking up 8-10" browns.  The jackpot finally came an hour into the hatch when, in short succession, we both hooked shout-worthy browns and enjoyed each others' success.

Matt works in his big brown
Hen's Epic bends to a bruiser brown



Soon after we hooked our browns the hatch eased and the river faded back to unpocked.  I made it back to the Jeep while Henry made the acquaintance of Andrew Allender of Little J Guides.   Andrew had arrived late and was waiting to see if a secondary hatch might emerge.    That it didn't was lucky for us as Andrew shared his love and some of his knowledge about the Little J. There are other guides in the area, but if your looking for one who's also a quality human and shares a passion for C&R fly fishing and flowing water, give these guys a call, Hen and I plan to next visit.


With smiles on our faces we retired to a nice bed in State College to plan for the next day.    We almost came back to Spruce Creek and the Little J for an encore, but decided to continue to survey central PA streams.  We decided to take a chance and try something different so we set out sights on the Big Springs and the Letort, famous spring fed waters in the vicinity of Carlisle, PA.  Here's the what I learned...Spring Creek Fishing is hard and all but the first 3/4 mile of the 'Famous' Letort is a silty, muddy, barren industrial stream. We started out at Big Springs, the 5th largest spring in PA, and a local long-rodder gave us some tips.   He said he'd caught 6-7 by easing a heavy sculpin with a 7wt along the vegetation beds and by fishing inviting structure for fish he couldn't see.  Hen and I tried this for a few minutes but lost patience when we spotted a pod of 10 bruisers just downstream from our cars...of course these fish are caught and released over and over, learning lessons each time and as much as laughed at our clumsy efforts.    Hen enticed one rainbow to strike a wholly bugger, but that was our only action from these wary monsters.
TU added structure defines the banks and breaks up the flow

Big Creek like most other spring creeks is best fished from the bank

A mini-panorama shows Hen fishing up to the wary pod of large rainbows just off the far bank
 Hen and I were excited to hit the Letort and walked in at the well marked Cumberland Valley TU access where a nice sign welcome members and visiting long rodders to there home waters.  Something must have happened as the water was ugly, silty and barren of life.   I laughed and cringed that this was the famous LeTort. It took me 5 minutes to bank crawl out of the mud-sucking bottom.  I decided to call it a trip and head back to VA, but Henry found a couple a mile upstream that had caught several in an area that looked much more alive than downstream.   Not wating to get skunked on this famous stream we gave it a shot, with light rods, but for me I'd lost the patience and concentration required to dead drift a tiny nymph in tiny water.    We both kicked a few fish before we called it a day
The 'alive' section of the famous Letort, note the vegetation and sandy bottom -- at least there were trout here.
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Thanks for checking out our adventure

A man is the substance of the things he loves. The love of Nature was passed on to me and I in turn am passing it along.
Charlie Taylor
   

Sunday, May 7, 2017

Afton on the Rapidan


My nephew Afton and I had been planning an adventure for several months so when he flew in with my mother last Wednesday I was very excited.   After an evening of delicious pizza and packing we faded off to sleep with visions of trout dancing in our heads.  Jamie the jeep rode an inch lower loaded with car camping gear and we enjoyed our usual fill-ups and outs at the last 7/11 in Culpeper then headed through heavy fog toward the mountains on West Hoover Rd. We didn't see any mammoth steer up close as we started our climb up Rapidan Fire Road.   As we neared the crest of the first ridge we crested the clouds and the sun dappled through.   We stopped to take a look and I asked Afton if he wanted to drive.   If you haven't picked your way along on this road its hard to explain, but in some places its more rutted mountain stream bed then maintained road.  Afton beemed and gamely climbed on my lap, after a quick driving lesson and with a dubious smile from Grammy Afton navigated us by Junction Pool, TU Bridge, 2nd bridge, the Rapidan Cabins and all the way to our camping spot just shy of the top gate.   This is where Henry and I camped previously and I knew it would fit the bill.   After making camp Afton and I geared-up: waders, boots and light rods and took a quick casting lesson.  We caught a small brookie with a 'this is how we're going to do it cast' in the the camp-side pool and readied to head upstream.









We agreed to meet mom at 1530 at the Hoover cabin a mile upstream and set out.   It had rained earlier in the week and the water was fishably high and not ideal for a young, light wader so we decided to navigate the stream together and pick pools to co-cast to and rocks to dangle flies from.   We were rewarded with surface action on size 14 parachute adams and Mr. Rapidan fry flies.  Many of you know that high gradient, tight-cover brookie fishing is a challenge and Afton was game.  He quickly learned to survey his backcast, tend his line/drift and was laying down workable presentations.   He was rewarded after about an hour with a trout by himself, a speckled little beauty that brought a big smile to his face. Many strikes later (its hard to set the hook with current-gifted slack in the line) later we had streamside PB&Js and surveyed the nature festival around us; butterflies, trout, bugs, waterfalls, etc.  We fished for another hour together and lost (ok I lost) a large brookie who'd launched out of the water for my dry.  Sensing we'd reached our limit we bushwhacked back to the fire road "Uncle Matt, Where's the road"😊 and after a damp trudge found Grammy napping contently on President Hoover's porch.  I played with some brookies in Laurel Prong while Afton and Grammy toured the camp and we headed down the mtn to out camp.   Camp = Good.   In no rush we had a great time exploring, setting up our hammocks and surveying our gear...both Afton and his uncle Matt love us some gear! 






Afton got his fire-starters' badge and soon we had a roaring fire and were ready for a feast of hot dogs and baked beans.   Were the baked beans wise given a night enclosed in sleeping bags? ðŸ‘ƒ  You be the judge. Never is dinner so tasty as it is at camp at the end of a long day and we ended the  meal by tossing our paper plates into the inferno...good tymes.  We had a nice shelf log where the beans re-warmed, their wafting their aroma was more then I could take so I leapt-up, camp spoon in hand and scooped up log-roasting beans much to Afton's delight/disgust.   I didn't want to eat all the fun myself so Before they could come to their senses I reached back and spooned a smokey spoonful to Afton and Mom.  They were....well smokey :-)









Like Outback it was, a 'No rules, just right' kind of night and we enjoyed watching Afton tending the fire and dunking torches in the campside river.  Just after I proclaimed the distant thunder would pass us by, Afton announced, "Uncle Matt, I feel Rain!"   Dang.   Afton and Mom folded themselves into their hammocks and I brought out tarps to keep us dry.  With a bit more moisture then I would have liked 10 minutes later we were cocooned/ensnared in our hammocks, happy to be dry but with visions of black bears in our dreams (ask Afton for more detail).  It was an eventful sleep (ask Mom for the story) and we were up with the sun and enjoyed watching it creep down the steep slope of Fork Mtn across the river.  After coffee, bacon and eggs we packed up and Afton drove us out thoroughly enjoying splashing through every muddy rut and puddle along the way.    Great times.











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